La Isla del Gelato

La Isla del Gelato

On the square — Artisan gelato, crêpes and good coffee, open until midnight. Closed Tuesdays.

Es Verger

Es Verger

15 min up the mountain track — One wood oven, alight since dawn, and shoulder of lamb that has been in it for hours. Plain tables, goats, the whole Tramuntana in front of you. Usually closed Mondays, and the lamb runs out after two o’clock. The access track is single-track, unguarded and rough — it […]

El Trastero

El Trastero

On foot — Small plates on the upper square. Closed Tuesdays.

Ca Na Juanita

Ca Na Juanita

On the square — The bakery, for the morning ensaïmada.

Bar Sa Plaça

Bar Sa Plaça

On foot — The proper village café from half past six in the morning: pa amb oli, tapas, a shaded terrace and the cycling crowd. Beside the church rather than on the main square.

Forastera

Forastera

On foot — A working microbrewery with a taproom. Closes for holidays roughly 23 August to 15 September.

La Bufala

La Bufala

On foot — Neapolitan wood-fired pizza and handmade pasta, big terrace, good with children. Dinner only, closed Mondays.

Ca’s Patró March

Ca’s Patró March

Cala Deià, 45 min — A fish shack on the rocks, made famous by The Night Manager. Bookings open only fifteen days ahead and go within minutes, and it is cash only with no cash machine nearby. Late spring to early autumn; dinner in July and August only.

Ca n’Antuna

Ca n’Antuna

Fornalutx, 35 min — A terrace hanging over the Sóller valley, arròs brut and roast suckling pig, enormous portions, honest prices. Closed Mondays; book for Sundays.

Celler Sa Premsa

Celler Sa Premsa

Deià, 40 min or by boat — Paella over a wood fire on a cliff terrace, reached by boat or a steep path.